The Kalinjar
Fort in Bundelkhand is an entire history in itself, a story through
6000 human generations in immediate past alone. You cannot think of it without
the convergence it includes – of people and events from the wide, wide world
within the sub-continent and from abroad – over a span of one and a half
millenia. Developments in East, South, West and North West of India, Asia
Minor, Middle East and Central Asia, and in Europe, as far as British Isles,
gravitated to this now rather nondescript place.
That is too much of history, we note in
astonishment, and far too many people of all kinds to be converging on this
quiet forested periphery of one the oldest mountain ranges on earth – the
Vindhyas. What accentuates our wonder are the legendary architecture the Fort
and other ruins from antiquity in the region present, the exquisite temples and
irreplicable sculptures at Khajuraho mere 100 km away, the economic and political
significance it acquired and the culture it spawned over the centuries as the
Indian civilisation itself evolved from the " Golden " Gupta era
through the Hun, Sakya and Muslim invasions, the Turk and Mughal reigns in
medieval times, the spirited movements it saw during British occupation, the
remarkably endowed persons it raised, the rich traditions it fostered, and the
fabulous hearsay natives in its vicinity still talk about !
Though associated principally with the Chandels
and that fantastically temple – dense "city" of Khajuraho, from 10th Century
through the 13th, the ' Kalinjara ' connection goes back to the
Kalachuris of Elephanta and Ellora caves, the Rashtrakuts of Deccan, and
further on to the Gujarat Parmars, the Kannauj Pratihars and Chauhans, the
Vijaynagar empire, the Mughals, Afghans, the English, the armed rebellions
against British occupation and for Indian independence, and to Mahatma Gandhi.
It takes the wind out of me and leaves my heart
brimming with humanity. The Kalinjar Fort was a fortress
with unparalleled strength, much culture and uncounted wealth.
Together with its twin fort at Ajaigarh, Kalinjar formed a formidable line of
defence against attacks from the north. In 1019, Mahmud of Ghazni ravaged
much of north and west India but had to turn back from Kalinjar on account of
the difficulties it posed and the opposition he encountered. The year 1022
saw a repeat, with Ghazni having to remain content with a few gifts from
the Chandel ruler of Kalinjar,
but without the keys to the Fort itself.
In its heydays, it is said that the Fort was ' a
frightening embodiment of Hindu power.'
The most significant place within the Fort still extant is the Neelkanth
(Shiva) Temple, built in a cave in the mountain wall, which precedes the Fort
itself by a couple of millenia, or more.
The entire construction came up around this ancient place of worship.
The wide platform in front of its small entrance includes a mandapa, with proud pillars that still
stand, but which is now roofless. All around it are priceless, ancient rock cut
relics and carvings.
It is certain that had the Kalinjar Fort fallen
to Ghazni's plunder, Khajuraho and its priceless expressions of art, thought
and architecture, would not have survived. And the irony of ironies is that
Khajuraho is a thriving well-promoted tourist hub today while Kalinjar is a
grey area, seldom appreciated, rarely remembered and infrequently visited by
the connoisseurs of history, art, architecture and defence strategy.
The Chandel supremacy was constantly under
challenge since early medieval period and its kings had to face assaults from
rulers of Kannauj in their north-west, Malwa in the west, the
Chalukyas and Rashtrakuts in south and south-west, the Pals in the east, and of
Kalinga in south-east. But the survival of Chēdi – Kalchuris through a
millennium in such hostile environment, with their own dateline, currency and
administrative institutions, speaks a lot for their commitment to the dominion
and for their capability of shoring up order and security in the region to
allow for pastoral and agricultural occupations, crafts and trade, arts and
culture.
But it was the forts at Kalinjar and Ajaigarh
that still remained with the Chandel line of kings, when their dominion had
shrunk to a few districts in the neighbouhood and the last of them was finally
submerged in the waves of history that saw attacks by Gonds, because the Gond
king wanted the hand of the Chandel princess, onslaughts of Afghan and Mughal
armies, the rise of Raja Chhatrasal, the sway of Maratha power and its
occupation by the British.
Today, the Fort is at peace. The battles have
ended and the two old forts are gradually fading, much like old soldiers of
yore.
Of the hearsays, it is said that even today the
Queen's Palace fills with spooky sounds at night, of ankle trinkets specially
worn by courtesans and danseuse while they performed before a gathering of
eminent persons invited by the royals for an evening of art, joy and pleasure !
The well illustrated e-book is available @ http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WYGNNA and through its
distribution arms in UK, France, Germany, Spain and Italy.( Column originally blogged @ http://vamadevananda.wordpress.com )
